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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.